Machine for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes.



K. ENGEL & L. M. BROWN.

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED NOV-27.1908.

1 1 8 1 ,296 Patented May 2, 1916.

6 SIIEETSSHEET I.

W/T/VESZSES F 1g. 1. Wvwvnms I i II %M a 42% W K. ENGEL & L. M. BROWN.

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 21, I908.

1,181,296. Patented May 2,1916.

6 SHEETSSHEET 2.

K. ENGEL & L. M. BROWN. MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 27. I908.

1,181,296. Patented May 2,1916} 6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

lV/T/VES'SESL K. ENGEL & L. M. BROWN.

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES. APPLICATION FILED NOV. 27. 1908.

1 1 8 1 ,296 Patented May 2, 1916.

K. ENGEL & L. M. BROWN.

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHbES.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 27. 1908.

1 1 8 1 ,296 Patented May 2, 1916.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5- l WT/YESSZS'.

K. ENGEL & L. M. BROWN.

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 27, 1908.

1 1 8 1 ,296 Patented May 2, 1916.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

UNITE s ra'rns PATENT ornion.

KARL E'NGEL, OF ARLINGTON, AND LOUIS 1V1. BROXVN, OF SALEM, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS TO .UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY,

A. CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Application filed November 27, 1908.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, KARL EXCEL and LOUIS M. BROWN, citizens of the United States, residing at Arlington, in the county of Middlesex and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, and Salem, in the county of Essex and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, re spectively, have invented certain Improve ments in Machines for Use in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to machines for shaping the uppers of boots and shoes.

Although the invention is herein shown as embodied in a machine intended to render commercially practicable the manufacture of shoes known to the trade as stitchdowns, that is shoes having integral with the uppers outturned sole attaching flanges, it will be understood that many of its novel features of consfraiic-n and novel principles of operation can be utilized to advantage in machines and processes employed in the manufacture of other types of shoes.

Among the many dilliculties encountered in the manufacture of the stitch-down shoe, a shoe which, when completed, seems to present one of the simplest forms in which shoes can be made, is that of properly shaping the upper to or for a last and at the same time, or even at a later time, forming upon said upper an outturned flange. Many means have been devised for overcoming the difficulty just mentioned and of these perhaps the greater number have involved surrounding a last, over which the upper is stretched in substantially the same manner as in the manufacture of the more common forms of shoes, with a form, over the edge of which the flange may be turned and upon the surface of which it may be hammered out or pressed out. Since a different form is required for each style and size of shoe the cost of manufacture by such means and methods is prohibitive. Of the other means and methods few have come into favor, especially for the manufacture of the finer grades of boots and shoes, and further discussion of them in connection with the pres- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 2, 1916.

Serial No. 464,559.

ent invention appears to be uncalled for, except in so far as the advantages of the construction herein disclosed may be rendered more apparent by incidental references to the difficulties encountered with other means and methods which difiiculties have been overcome by the present invention.

The machine of this application is designed especially to perform or to assist in performing certain steps in a method of manufacturing shoes disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent No. 931,851, to Karl Engel, granted August 24, 1909, or to perform or to assist in performing similar or analogous steps in other methods of shoe manufacture. By the method of the patent above referred to, the toe part of the upper, or the heel part, or both, is shaped or molded without the use of a last. Shaping or molding according to the method of the said patent preferably includes the formation of the sole attaching flange.

In general, the object of the present in vention is to provide improved means for shaping or molding a shoe upper Without the use of a last.

A particular object of the invention is to provide not only means for giving to the upper the shape of the last for which the pattern is cut but also means for forming upon said upper a sole attaching flange, said means being preferably arranged to operate simultaneously.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine embodying the means above referred to which is readily adaptable to a wide range of sizes of shoe uppers.

Other objects of the invention are to provide a machine in which the upper to be shaped may be handled right side up so that the results of the shaping operation may be readily observed, and in which the work is held at such an angle to the operator that the best view of the work obtainable is permitted; to provide a machine for performing the greater part of the work necessary to shape an upper to fit the last for which the pattern is out, which can be operated with comparatively unskilled labor; and to provide a machine in which both the toe and heel portions of an upper may be shaped, preferably in succession, in which either the counter or the box toe or both may be shaped simultaneously with the upper, in which there may be cooperation between the toe and heel-shaping mechanisms to effect a lengthwise stretching ofthe up per, in which a plurality of uppers may be operated upon in succession in such manner that one may be .allowed to set to shape while another is being placed in position-to be shaped, and in which all of the operations are performed automatically so far as they can thus be performedto advantage.

WVith the foregoing objects in view, and others which will be apparent from a con sideration of the following description and claims taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, the invention is herein illustrated as embodied in a machine com prising one or more toe forming or molding mechanisms, one or more heel forming or m'hlirg m chanisms, means for automati cally operating said mechanisms, means for go erning the succession of the operations of .said mechanisms and means under the control .of the operator for actuating the operating means.

As .hereinabove suggested, the machine is preferably made automatic as far as the nature of the operations and the nature of the Work and the conditions under which the machine operates will permit, and an important feature of the invention is the provision of automatic actuating means which is so constructed that it wilLadapt itself automatically to variations in the characteristics of the materials upon which the machine is operating such, for example, as variations in thickness. A convenient embodiment of this feature of the invention comprises, as herein shown, a toggle to be straightened to effect a movement of a part, one link of the toggle being connected to the part to be moved and the other link being connected to yielding means whereby the excess of movement of the toggle over the desired movement of the part may be taken up in the yielding means.

Another important feature of the inven tion is the novel mechanism for shaping the toe part of the upper. One of the greatest difficulties heretofore encountered in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes has been that of forming a smooth and properly curved flange about the toe part of the upper and at the same time giving to the toe its proper shape. This difficulty has been largely due to the fact that it is necessary in shaping a toe over a last, or for a last. to draw the upper over the last in several different directions. It will readily be seen therefore that those attempts to form uppers having outturned flanges Which involve imply .direct molding of the toe part at the l ppa nm t n ce sarily re ult i com;

parative failure, especially with the finer grades of upper leather, since undue strain will be brought to bear upon certain parts of the leather going into the toe and flange.

An important object of the toe forming mechanism constituting a feature of the present invention is to provide a construction which will obviate the difficulties hereinbefore pointed out and which will preferably combine efficient means for shaping the toe portion of a stitch-down shoe upper together with likewise eflicient means for forming upon the upper an outturned flange, said two means operating in such manner that neither can injuriously affect the work of the other.

Other objects of the mechanism above mentioned are to provide a construction in which the toe forming and flange forming means cooperate in such manner that each aids in the performance of the work of the other and to provide a construction comprising the means aforesaid which in operation will have no tendency to tear or unduly strain the upper and which will include means for moving any excess of material from the region or regions where it may occur to the region or regions where it is needed in the operation of shaping the toe and forming the outturned flange.

In a convenient embodiment of this feature of the invention herein shown, a movable toe former is provided in combination with means for clamping a toe blank along its outer edge in position to be operated upon by said former, said former being arranged to move first transversely of said clamping means and then longitudinally and said clamping means comprising por tions along the sides of the toe movable in the plane of said means in approximately the same direction as the toe former, and another portion or other portions at the front of the toe movable in a different direction or in different directions.

The principle of operation of the toe forming mechanism herein shown is substantially that of the toe forming mechanism disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent No. 998,682, granted July 25, 1911, to Karl Engel for improvements in machines for forming uppers of boots and shoes and no claims will therefore be made in this application to the subject-matter disclosed in said Letters Patent.

Another important feature of the invention comprises novel and improved mechanism for shaping the heel portion of the upper and at the same time, or as a succeeding step in its operation, forming upon said heel portion an outturned flange. A difficulty encountered in the formation of an outturned sole attaching flange upon the heel portion of an upper by the usual means t eses- 1 met-beds hes en that o ernthe invention is to effect the formation of an outturned flange upon the heel portion of a Shoe upper, or upon said heel portion and a counter placed in said upper. without tearing the said flange and without leaving it in a wrinkled condition.

Another purpose of this feature of the invention is not only to form an outturned flange upon the heel portion of the upper but at the same time to shape said heel portion of the upper to fit the heel. This latter step preferably includes also shaping a counter blank previously placed in the upper to fit the heel. A convenient embodiment of this feature of the invention com prises means for molding an upper. or an upper and a counter blank together. to fit the heel. said means being constructed to gather in the material along a flange turning line, in combination with means for turning out the material lying upon one side of said line to form an outturned flange.

The principle of operation of the heel forming mechanism herein shown is substantially that of the heel forming mechanism disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,027,408, granted May 28. .912. to Karl Engel for improvements in machines for forming uppers of boots and shoes and. therefore, no claims will be made in this application to the subject-matter disclosed in the said Letters Patent.

A further important feature of the invention comprises the combination with the above-described means for forming an outturned flange of means for bringing pres sure to bear upon said outturned flange to give it a more permanent shape and also to help in smoothing out any wrinkles caused by the fullness of the material lying within the peripheral edge of the flange.

Another important feature of the inven tion comprises the provision of means for pressing out the outturned flange which is so constructed and arranged that t not only insures the pressing of the flange into the plane in which it will lie in the finished shoe but also causes the flange to be pressed up beyond said plane in order to stretch it somewhat and thus overcome the normal tendency which it has. owing to its original shape, to bend down below the plane in which it should lie after it is released by the pressing means. In a convenient em bodiment of this feature of the invent on a single device serves both to turn the flange and to press it out and preferably for this purpose said device has two movements transverse to each other.

As hereinabove suggested, the machine is preferably so constructed that a lengthwise stretching of the upper may be effected durng the upper shaping operations, and an important feature of the invention is the arrangement of the toe and heel forming mechanisms and the timing of their operations so that such stretching of the upper is ctfectcd after one of the parts has been shaped and during the shaping of the other part. A convenient embodiment of this feature of the invention comprises. as shown. an arrangement o these mechanisms and a timing of their operations so that the heel part of the upper is shaped first and then the toe part of the upper is clamped for the toe forming operation. the lengthwise stretching of the upper being effected by the forward movement of the toe former as it moves to form the bulge of the toe over the outturncd sole attaching flange.

Other features of the invention are the provision of means for positively gaging the flange at the toe end of the upper. the provision of means for positively gaging the flange at the heel end of the upper. the provision of means for readily effecting various adjustments of the diflferent mechanisms to suit them or the machine as a whole to operation upon uppers of different sizes or of different materials or of different styles. and the provision of means ociated with the adiusting means for indi rating to the operator the size of the shoe for which the machine is set.

To still other no el and important features of the invention attention will he directed in the following description and it is to he understood that it i our intention to cover in the claims whatever of novelty is herein disclosed of our invention. since it will be noted that many features of the in vention arc of quite general applicability in the art of making shoes.

It will he noted further that several of the mechanisms comprised in the machine constituting the preferred embodiment of this invention perform in their o 'ieration certain steps in a novel method of shoe manufacture which is claimed in a divisional application referred to at the end of this specification and bearing the same patent date In the accompanying drawings l igure 1 is a. side elevation of a machine embodying the preferred form of the invention: Fig. 2 is a top view of the machine looking down upon it at an angle of substantially 45 to the horizontal: Fig. 3 is a rear elevation; Fig. el. is a detail section throu h upper forming mechanisms: Fig. 3 is a dctail view showing the lay-outs of the various cams: Fig. 6 is a perspecti e view of the toe forming mechanism: Fig. 7 is a detail perspective of a modification. of the means one of the for actuating the movable parts of one of the toe clamp members; Fig. 8 is a detail perspective of the heel forming mechanism; Fig. 9 is a detail perspective of the flange turner. Fig. 10 is a plan view of one of the clamp members of the toe forming mechanism with the parts in position to receive the work; Fig. 11 is a plan view of the clamp member shown in Fig. 10: showing the position of the pa rte after the toe former has moved forward during the toe forming operation: Fig. 12 is a longitudinal section through the heel-forming mechanism showing the flange turner about to move in the direction to turn the flange; Fig. 13 is a section similar to Fig. 12 but showing the flange turner in the position in which it stops after the flange turning operation; Fig. 1% is a section similar to Figs. 12 and 13, but showing the flange turner pressed against the flange; Fig. 15 is a transverse section through the heel forming mechanism with the parts in the position in which they are shown in Fig. 11; Fig. 16 shows a shoe upper after it has been operated upon by this machine.

As hereinhefore suggested, the machine is preferably provided with two upper forming mechanisms so that one shoe may be permitted to set to form while the other is being placed in the machine. and in the illustrated embodiment of the invention an upper forming mechanism provided for forming the upper of a right shoe and an other forming mechanism is provided for forming the upper of a left shee. For convenience of description. since the two mechanisms comprise the same parts, reference will be made first to that mechanism which is shown at the left in Fig. and which appears in side elevation in Fig. 1.

The upper forming i'neehanisms are in cliued to the horizontal at an angle of substantially -15 whereby the operator may obtain the best view of the work and are supported upon a framework 2 in which is journaled a main operating shaft having loosely mounted thereon a driving pulley G which may be clutched to the shaft at the will of the operator l any suitable clutch mechanism. that herein illustrated compris ing a Horton clutch. the roller cage of which has connected to it or formed il'itegral with it a ratchet wheel 8, spring-pressed in the direction to effect the clutching of the pulley 6 to the shaft 1 and arranged to be held out of its clutch setting position by a tripping: pawl 10 cushioned in a lever 12 pivoted on the machine frame.

The lever 1:2 is connected by a rod 1% to one arm of a three-armed lever 16 pivoted at 18 upon the machine frame. Another arm of the three-arn'ied lever 16 is con nected by a rod 20 to an arm 22 upon the rock-shaft :24 to which the treadle 26 is attached. The rod 20 is adjustable in a clamp 28 pivoted upon the arm A spring 30 connected at one end to the frame 2 and at the other end to the arm maintains the treadle 26 yieldingly in its uppermost position and at the same time tends to keep the three-armed lever 16 rocked toward the left in Fi 1, thus bringing the tripping pawl 10 into operative relation to one of the teeth of the ratchet wheel 8 and thereby unclutch- .ing the loose pulley 6 from the shaft 1. It will be seen, therefore, that when the treadle :26 is released by the operator the spring 30 will cause the parts controlled by it to move at once in the direction to effect an unclutching of the pulley (3 from the shaft 4 unless some means-he provided to prevent this movement. To prevent premature unclutching of the pulley 6, therefore, a controlling disk 32 mounted upon the cam shaft has been provided in which are formed, at desired distances about its periphery, notches 31 to be entered by a catch 36 upon a third arm of the three-armed lever 16. Between the notches 31 the periphery of the disk is smooth and concentric with its aXis of rotation so that the catch 36 may ride upon it without moving the lever 16 in either direction.

The disk 32 and the catch 36 are so proportioned that when the catch enters one of the notches in the disk it permits the lever 16 to rock far enough toward the left in Fig. 1 to permit the pawl 10 to come beneath one of the teeth of the ratchet Wheel 8. Vhen, however, the catch 36 is riding upon the periphery of the disk 32 the pawl 10 will be held out of operative relation to the teeth of the ratchet Wheel 8.

A rod 38 is connected at one end to the treadle 26 and at its other end to one arm of a brake lever 40 loosely mounted upon the cam shaft 33, the other arm of said brake lever being provided with a brake shoe 4A adapted to engage, when the treadle is moved to its uppermost position by the action of the spring 30, the brake disk 46 rigidly attached to the main shaft 4. A spring 47, connected to the machine frame at one end and at its other end connected to the arm of the brake lever 40 to which the brake shoe it is attached, serves to press the shoe 5% down upon the brake disk 46 to stop the machine when the pulley G is unclutehed from the shaft Provision is made for an adjustable amount of lost motion in the connections between the brake lever t0 and the treadle 26, whereby the brake may be lifted from the brake disk to at exactly the right time and may be prevented from coming into braking contact with the disk .6 until the pulley 6 has been unclntched from the shaft 4. A hand wheel 48 attached to the shaft 4 provides means by which the shaft can be turned over by hand.

The cams through which the various operations of the machine are effected are mounted upon two shafts and 50 connected by gears 52 and .34, the gear 52 being driven by a pinion 56 connected to an idler gear 58 driven from a pinion 60 upon the main shaft 4.

The upper forming mechanism, as above stated, is inclined to the horizontal at such an angle that the operator may get a good view of the upper during the forming operation and comprises, as also stated above, preferably a toe forming mechanism and a heel forming mechanism arranged to operate in succession, the heel of the upper being preferably shaped first and then the toe. These mechanisms are preferably so arranged that the toe of the upper points upwardly.

The heel mechanism being preferably the first to operate will be first described. The broad principle of operation of this mechanism is substantially the same as that of the heel forming mechanism disclosed in the Letters Patent No. 1,027,408 hereinabove referred to; that is, the material of the heel is gathered in along the flange turning line in advance of the flange turning operation.

The heel former or male mold 62 is mounted upon a pin 64 projecting upwardly from the inclined table 66 into a socket in the former 62. The female mold comprises two jaw-like members 68 shaped at their forward ends to embrace the former or male mold 62 and resting upon guides 69 at each side of a slide 70 upon which is formed or carried the turner hereinafter to be described.

At their rear ends the members 68 are provided with upwardly projecting pins 72 entering slots 74 in a plate 76 attached to a cross-arm on a yoke 78 connected to two actuating rods 80. said pins 72 extending through slots in the plate 76 and into inclined guiding grooves 82 in a cover plate 84 hinged at 86 to upstanding lugs 88 on the table 66 and locked in its closed position by nuts 90 upon the threaded ends of posts 92 connected to the table 66. The pins 72 are provided with cam rolls in the grooves 82. The said grooves 82 are enlarged at their forward or upper ends to permit variable turning of the 68 toward each other.

The cover plate 84 serves to keep the members 68 in position after the parts have been assembled, and it is cut away at its upper or forward end to permit the ready introduction of the upper, the heel end of which is to be formed. The members 68 are prevented from moving laterally outwardly by downwardly projecting plates 94 dove-tailed into the cover plate 84. The members 68 are provided at their forward ends with springs 93 which are arranged to engage rollers 95 upon the posts 92 as the members 68 are moved forwardly by the rods 80 and turn the forward ends of the jaws of the members 68 toward each other, the springs 93 permitting the members 68 to adapt themselves to material of varying thickness upon the former 62. The slots in the plates 76, the grooves in the cover plate 8% and the springs 93 and rollers 95 are so arranged that as the cross arm 78 is moved upwardly by the rods 80 from a position like that shown at the left in Fig. 2 to a position like that shown at the right in the same figure the members 68 will be moved from their open position, in which the work may be placed over the former 62, into their closed position, shown at the right in Fig. 2, in which they clamp the heel end of the upper about the former 62 and thereby mold it into correct shape.

Each of the rods 80 is connected at its upper end to a link 96 constituting part of a toggle, the other member 98 of which is connected to a spring-cushioned plunger 100 bearing upon a spring 102 in a spring socket 104. The tension of the spring 102 can be varied by turning a plug 106 screwed into the lower end of the socket. \Vhen the toggle is broken, the cross arm 78 assumes its lowermost position, thereby causing the jaws to open. This position of the toggle is shown at the left in Fig. 2. When the toggle is straightened, as shown at the right in Fig. 2, the arm 78 is drawn upward into the position there shown.

The straightening of the toggle 96, 98 is effected through a link 108 connected to the knee joint of the toggle at one end and at its other end connected to a fulcrum link 110, the link 108 being moved in its toggle straightening and toggle breakingdirections by the engagement of a cam roll 112 carried by the link with a cam groove 114 formed in a cam disk 115 or the cam shaft 50. The rod 80 is slotted at its upper end and a headed bolt 116 passing through this slot serves to guide the rod 80 during its movement caused by the straightening and breaking of the toggle 96, 98.

After the upper has been placed in position to be operated upon about the male mold or former 62 and has been clamped and shaped to fit the back of the heel by the movement of the members 68 into the closed position shown at the right in Fig. 2. a portion of the material of which the upper is formed, which may include also a portion of the counter, will project below or outside the two mold members, as shown in Fig. 12. in position to be operated upon by the flange turner to form an outturned flange.

The lower face of the former 62 is spaced from the pper surface of the slide a distance equal to the width of the desired margin to be formed upon the heel end of the upper so that the operator, when placing the upper in position around the former (l2, shoves the lower edge of the heel end of the upper down into engagement with the upper face of the slide 70, this face of the slide therefore serving to gage the width of the outturned flange at this end of the upper.

It will be noted that in vertical section the male and female molds have been so shaped that when the upper is clamped between them the material along the line of turning will be gathered in somewhat so that an outturned flange may readily be formed without too much stretching of the upper material. As hereinabove suggested. the flange turner is attached to. or formedupon. the slide 70 and comprises, as shown, a raised portion 118, Fig. 9, upon the slide 70 so shaped that when the parts are in the position shown in Fig. 12 the lower end of this raised portion lies within the do'vvn- \vardly objecting portion of the heel end of the upper, this lower end of the raised portion 118 being preferably of substantially uniform width. although when ope-n ating upon very heavy leather it is sometimes desirable to form it of gradually in creasing width.

The upper end of the raised portion 118 increases gradually in width so that as the slide 70 moves downward to effect the flange tm'ning operation the projecting portion of the upper will be turned out first at the back end of the heel, this operation serving to draw toward this end some of the material of the projecting portions at the sides of the heel and then the said projecting portions at the sides will be turned out as the wider part of the rais d portion 118 of the slide 70 engages it.

It will be noted upon an QXilHllniliinD of Figs. 12 to 15 inclusive that the under face of the female mold cut back from the edge adjacent to the male mold and that at its upper face the flange turning portion 118 of the slide 70 is concavcd to fit the convexity of the feniale mold formed by the bctorementioned cutting back. This cut ting back of the lower face of the female mold permits the outturned flange to be turned up out of the plane into which it is first moved in order to give it an additional stretching and thus insure its maintaining permanently its outfurned position.

The up\\ ard turning of the flange is effected in the illustrated construction by a .ccond movement of the flange turner slide it in a di iection at right angles to its first movement. this second movement serving to bring the concavity of the upper face of the raised portion 118 into cooperative relationship to the convexity upon the lower face of the female mold. thus serving to clamp the outturned flange between the said two faces to turn the flange up out of the plane in which it is first turned and to smooth out any wrinkles which may have been formed by the llangc during the turning operation.

It will be noted upon examination of Figs. 12 to 15 inclusive that the slide 70 is provided with a slot 120 which receives the pin (31 supporting the male mold or former (3-2. and that this slot is long enough to permit the slide to travel past the pin in its flange turning movement. It will therefore be seen that if some provision is not made for filling up the portion of this slot which lies below the outturned flange at the rear end of the heel there will be nothing at this end to cause this portion of the flange to be pressed up against the under face of the female mold. To obviate this difficulty a follower 122 has been provided which is so shaped that it fills up the portion of the slot lying below the ontturned flange at the rear end of the heel when the slide 70 has completed its first or flange turning movement. this follower being mounted upon a stem 121 bearing against the spring 126 in a socket 128 opening into the slot in the slide 70.

When the slide is moved toward its uppermost position the follower 122 engages the pin (Sland the stem 121- is thus pushed back into the socket 128 against the tension of the spring 126. \Yhen the slide 70 movestoward its lowermost position during the flange turning operation the spring 126 causes the follower to remain stationary and in contact with the pin (31 until the follower enters a restricted portion of the slot 120 and is moved by the slide to a position beneath the outturned flange at the rear end of the heel and fills up the break in the raised portion 118 (Fig. 5.)) for the purposes above described.

The movement of the flange turner into flange pressing relation to the female mold is effected bv the following mechanism: The slide 70 is dove-tailed at its forward end at 130 to a second slide 132 carrying the toe forming mechanism hereinafter to be described. which latter slide partakes of the flange turning movement of the slide 70. The dove-tail 130 is so arranged that the slide 70 may have a second movement at right angles to its first movement and relative to the slide 132. For this second movement the slide 70 is engaged at its under side by a plunger 131 extending through a. guide opening in the table G6. At its lower end the plunger 13 i is connected to one link 1236 of a toggle, the other link 138 of said toggle being connected to a springcushioned plunger 110 bearing against a spring 112 in a spring socket 111 whereby any excess of movement of the straightening movement of the toggle over that required to press out the outturned flange will be taken up by the spring. The straightening of the toggle is effected by a link 1413 connected at one end to the knee joint of the toggle and at its other end to a fulcrum link 148, said link carrying at its joint with the fulcrum link a cam roll 150 entering a cam groove 152 in a cam disk 154 on the cam shaft 33. The cross-arm 78 has set in a screw-threaded opening near its middle a set screw 155 which serves as a stop with which the slide engages at its rear or lower end as it is forced upwardly by the plunger 131 during the flange pressing operation. This insures the pressing out of the flange at its forward ends. The screw 155 may be adjusted to ary the pressing at different parts of the flange.

The straightening of the toggle 136, 138 and the pressing out of the outturned flange upon the lower face of the female mold completes the heel forming operation. As hereinabove described the slide which carries the toe forming mechanism is moved down with the flange turner slide during the flange turning operation, thus bringing the toe tee forming mechanism into receiving position so that the toe end of the upper may be operated upon immediately after the completion of the heel-forming operation. The toe forming mechanism comprises two clamp members 156 and 158, Figs. 6 and 8. constructed and arranged to clamp a marginal portion of the toe part of the upper of a width substantially equal to the desired width of the flange to be formed upon the said toe part of the upper, the lower clamp member being preferably stationary relatively to the upper clamp member and arranged to engage the unfinished side of the upper material or the side which will come inside the finished shoe. The lower clamp member has therefore preferably a roughened material engaging face so that the clamp members will hold the flange firmly without injurv to the finished surface of the upper material.

The clamping faces of the clamp members 156 and 158 are inclined to the table 66 at an angle of approximately 10, this inclination corresponding substantially to the spring of an ordinary last. Different inclinations can. of course, be given these clamping faces when it is desired to operate upon patterns for lasts having different spring.

The upper clamp member is formed as a plate cut back somewhat from its inner edge for a purpose hereinafter to be set forth,

ed to its other end an operating rod 172 slotted at its lower end to receive he cam shaft 33 and carrying a cam roll 171 entering a cam groove 176 in the cam disk 178, the lower end of said rod being connected to a fulcrum link 180 by which its vertical movements are partly guided.

The connections between the rod 172 and the lever 1(38 comprise a sleeve 17 having trunnions entering hearings in the forket head of the lever. the threaded upper end of the rod 172 passing through the sleeve 173 and being surrounded above said sleeve by a spring- 175 confined upon the rod by a nut 177, the upward movement of the rod through the sleeve 17 being limited by a second nut 17 threaded upon the rod below the sleeve. The yoke 161) has formed upon its upper face a rib 182 which enters a corresponding groove in the lever 1138, the rib 182 being arranged to receive and equalize the pressure of the said lever.

After the marginal. portion of the toe part of the upper is clamped to form an outturned flange the unclam 'ied portions of the upper lying within the marginal portion are acted upon by a toe former 18!- mounted upon a rod 183 adjustably carried in a slide 188, said slide 188 being guided for move ment longitudinally of the upper in guide grooves 190 in a slide 1 2 arranged to move at right angles to the direction of movement of the slide 1 The toe former 181- has two movements. one movement substantially transverse to the plane of the clamped portion of the upper end and the other in a direction substantially parallel to the plane of said clamped portion. The first of: these movements is effected by the movement of the slide 1932 which carries a can] roll 191 entering the cam groove 190 in the am disk 198, the lower end of the slide 192 being forked to embrace the cam shaft 33 by whi h it is partly guided in its movements.

Movement of the toe former in a direction substantially parallel to the plane of the clamped portion of the upper is effected by the following mechanism: A. sl de 200 carried by the slide is provided w th an opening through which passes the rod 186 and through which it moves during the movement of the toe former transverse to the plane of the clamped portion of the upper. said slide 200 being adiustablv connected by a rod 202 to a toggle actuated member 201, the adjustable connections between the rod 202 and the member 201 com prising a threaded sleeve 206 on a shouldered portion of which the member 201 is confined by a nut 208, said sleeve being arranged to be turned by a gear 210 intergeared with a second gear 212 upon a shaft 211 confined against longitudinal movement in a bearing 210 in an upstanding lug 218 upon the slide 132.

Turning of the sleeve 206 alone serves to adjust the toe former 181 withrespect to the clamp members 150 and 158. These clamp members are however carried upon a third slide 220, into an upstanding portion of which the shaft 211 is threaded, whereby, when said shaft is turned by the hand wheel 222, the said slide 220 is adjusted upon the slide 132. The threads upon the shaft 211 are of the same pitch as those upon the rod 202 and the gears 210 and 212 have the same number of teeth, so that when the shaft- 211 and the sleeve 200 are turned together there will be no relative adjusting movement of the toe former 181 and the clamp members 156, 158.

\Vhen it is desired to adjust the position of the toe former with respect to the clamp members 156, 158, the gear 212 may be disconnected from the shaft 211 and slid along said shaft out of engagement with the gear 210, whereby the sleeve 206 may be turned without turning the shaft 211. Variation of the amount of movement of the toe former 181 longitudinally of the shoe varies the bulge of the toe over its flange and at the same time varies the amount of longitudinal stretch given to the upper during the toe forming operation, the heel portion of the upper being at this time clamped in the heel forming mechanism. Simultaneous adjustment of the slides 220 and 200 upon the slide 132 adapts the toe forming mechanism to operate upon shoes of different sizes.

The member 201 is pivotally connected to one link 221 of a toggle, the other link 220 of which is connected to the slide 132. The toggle is straightened and broken, to effect a movement of the toe former longitudinally of the shoe during the toe forming operation and a movement into inoperative position, respectively, by a link 228 connected at one end to the knee joint of the toggle and at its other end to a fulcrum link 2210. upon a bracket on the slide 132, whereby the link 228 is caused to travel with the slide, said link 228 being provided at its joint with the fulcrum link 2530 with a pin 231 which enters a slot 230 in an offset arm 238 of a toggle operating slide 210 forked at its lower end to embrace the cam shaft 50 and reciprocate-d to effect its toggle straightening and breaking operations bv the engagement of a cam roll 212, carried by the slide 2-10, with a cam groove 211 in a cam disk 216 on the cam shaft 50. The slide 210 is guided at its upper end in a guide groove in the table 00. The amount of movement of the toe former 181 caused by the straightening of the toggle 221, 226 may be varied by turning the nut 208 upon the sleeve 206 so that there is lost motion between the member 201 and said sleeve.

The movement of the slide 132 downwardly to bring the toe forming mechanism into operative position and to effect the movement of the flange turner slide for the flange turning operation is effected through the following mechanism: A lever 218 pivoted upon the machine frame at its upper rear end has one arm connected by a link 250 to the bracket 232 on the slide 132 and its other arm connected by a link 252 to a fulcrum link 251 pivoted at its other end upon the machine frame. The link 252 carries at its joint with the fulcrum link 251 a cam roll traveling in a cam groove 258 in the cam disk 260 upon the cam shaft 50.

In order that the operator may determine readily the proper width of flange to be formed upon the toe part of the upper, a gage member 202 is provided at the forward end of the toe, said gage member being slidably mounted upon the yoke 100 which carries the upper clamp member 158 whereby it projects normally into operative gaging position but yields upwardly into said yoke as the clamp member 158 is moved into operative relation to the clamp member 156.

As hereinabove suggested an important feature of this invention is the provision of means for shaping the toe part of the upper which will avoid bringing undue strain to bear upon any part of the material entering into the toe. It will be apparent, upon a consideration of the difliculties of the problem to be solved in forming a toe without stretching the upper over the toe part of a last, that if it is attempted to form the toe by direct molding, as, for example, by moving the toe former 181 transversely of the plane of the clamped portion of the upper to give to those portions of the upper lying within the clamped margin the shape of the toe former, and if it is then attempted to move the toe former in a direction substantially parallel to the plane of the clamped margin without provision for any readjustment of the relative positions of the clamp members and clamped portions of the upper, undue strain will be eXerted upon certain portions of the clamped margin, especially those portions at the back part of the toe. It is important, both for the appearance of the shoe and the comfort of the wearer that a crease be formed about the toe and it is therefore important in a construction of this kind that provision be made for a movement of the toe former in a direction substantially parallel to the plane of the clamped margin. To provide such movement of the toe former and at the same time to avoid straining any part of the material which is to enter into the toe, the lower clamp member 156 has been so constructed that portions of the clamped margin may be moved in their own lane during the toe forming operation, and especially during the movement of the toe former in a direction substantially parallel to said plane, and that other portions of the margin may be fed into the field of operation of the toe former to provide additional material for the bulge in the toe which is produced by the said movement of the toe former in its direction parallel to the plane of the clamped margin. In the illustrated construction movable side plates 264 are guided in grooves in the face of the clamp member 156, one plate being provided at each side of the toe. At the forward end of the toe other movable plates 266 are arranged to move in toward the front end of the toe, the plates 26% and 266 moving in directions inclined to each other. Screws 268 passing through slots in the respective plates 2(3l and 266 and entering the clamp member 156 confine these plates upon said member, the slots extending in the directions in which the plates move. The plates 266 ride over the plates 26%, the latter plates being made somewhat thicker than the former and being recessed upon their upper faces to receive the plates 266. The toothed portions of the plates 266 are so arranged that they engage the pertions of the outturned flange near the rounded corners of the toe at its front end and the toothed portions of the plates 26+]: are so arranged that they engage the outturned flange near its rear ends. The portions of the outturned flange between those portions which are engaged by the teeth upon the plates 266 and those engaged by the teeth upon the plate QM are engaged by smooth plates 2T0 carried by the plates 26% and riding over the plates 266.

At their forward ends the plates 264 engage beltcrank levers :27). pivoted upon the clamp member 156, the longer arms of said bell crank leve s being pressed rearwardly by springs lins J71; upon the other arms of the bell crank levers 2T2 enter slots in the outer ends of the plates 266 and serve to move the said plates in toward the toe as the plates 26% are moved forward by means to be described.

\Vhen the toe former lSl is moved toward the front of the toe to form the bulge over the flange it tends to exert a pull upon the flange along the sides of the toe and this pull, acting upon the plates 26f, will tend normally to move these plates forwardly and through the bell-cranks 27:2 cause the plates 266 to be moved inwardly or rearwardly. Although the gathering-in effect of this arrangement of the plates 2.64 and 266 may be obtained to some extent by simply relying upon the drag of the clamped material to effect the movement of the plates, it is preferable that means be provided for moving these plates positively. The illustrated means comprises pushers 278 which, as shown, consist of screws threaded into cars upon a carrier 280 extending at its forward end into a slot 28:2, Fig. 8, in the slide 200 and confined in said slot by the rod 186 which passes through an opening in said carrier. The carrier 280 has an upstanding pin 28% which enters a notch 286 at the rear end of the toe former 1st and serves to prevent turning of the former with respect to the carrier .280. The pushers 278 are arranged to engage the rear ends of the plates or slides 26f as the toe former is moved forward by the slide 200 and thus effect the relative movements of different parts of the clamped flange to each other.

In a modified construction of means for effecting positively the movements of the flange-engaging plates upon the clamp memher 156, shown in Fig. 7, a lever 288 is pivoted upon the clamp carrying slide 220 and is arranged to be engaged by the pushers 278 to multiply the movement imparted to the plates 26% by the forward movement of the said pushers with the toe former 18' To aid the operator in adjusting the machine quickly for use with different sizes of uppers, a size scale 290, Fig. 2, has been provided with which cooperates a pointer 292 upon the slide 220. As the hand wheel 222 is turned to effect an adjustment of the slide 220 upon the slide 132 the pointer will indicate automatically upon the scale 290 the size of upper for which the machine is set.

The operation of the mechanism herein above described is as follows: The parts being in the position shown at the left in Fig. 2, the operator places the heel end of the upper around the former (32, shoving the lower edge of the upper into contact with the upper face of the slide by which the width of the flange to be formed about the heel end of the upper is gaged. The upper having been placed in position about the former 62. the operator depresses the treadle 26. thereby. through the connections with the three-armed lever 16. rocking said lever toward the right, pulling the tripping pawl 10 out of engagement with the ratchet wheel 8 and pulling the catch 36 out of the notch 34 in the controlling disk The last part of the depressing movement of the treadle acts through the rod 38 to lift the brake 44 out of engagement with the brake disk 46. The ratchet wheel 8, having been released by the movement of the tripping pawl 10 -out of engagement with it, is rotated by a spring, not shown, relatively to the other member of the Horton clutch and thus serves to clutch the pulley 6 to the shaft 4. The pulley 6 is connected with any suitable source of power and is preferably constantly rotated.

As the shaft 4 begins to rotate with the pulley 6, thus through the pinion 60, idler gear 58. pinion 56, gears 52 and 54 serving to rotate the cam shafts 33 and 50, the toggles 96, 98 will be straightened through their connections with the cam disks 115 on the cam shaft 50 and the rods will be drawn upward, carrying with them the cross-arm 7 8. As the cross-arm 78 moves upward or toward the front of the upper it will move with it the members 68 of the female mold and the engagement of the springs 93 at the forward ends of these members with the rollers on the posts 92 as Well as the action of the cam rollers upon the pin 72 in the grooves 82 in the cover plate 84 will serve to move the members into clamping and shaping engagement with the upper upon the former 62.

Any excess of movement of the toggles 96, 98 over that required to clamp the upper tightly about the former 62 will be taken up by the springs 102 upon which bear the plungers connected with said toggles. After the upper has been clamped about the former 62 and before the pulley 6 is unclutched from the shaft 4, the slide 70 will be moved downwardly ortowardthe back part of the upper to cause the raised portion or flange turner 118 formed upon itto engage and turn out that portion of theheel end of the upper which projects belowthe female mold members 68, this movement of the slide 70 being effected by its connections with the slide 132 which in turn is connected by the link 250 to the lever 248 actuated from the cam disk 260 upon the cam shaft 50. As the slide 70.moves downward during its flange turning movement, the follower 122 which is nonrotatably mounted in a widened part of the slot 120 remains in engagement with the pin 64 until the slide has moved far enough to bring the heel end of its flange turning and flange pressing portion into line with the acting face of said follower, the follower being then picked up and carried by the slide becausethe follower is Wider than the narrow part of the slot 120.

\Vhen the slide 70 has completed itsflange turning movement the plunger 134 is moved upwardly by the straightening of thetoggle 136, 138, which is controlled by the cam 154 upon the cam shaft 33, and the slide 70 is thus lifted away from the table 66 to bring its flange pressing, raised portion into flange pressing relation to the under faceof the female mold. Any excess of movement of the toggle over that required to perform the flange pressing operation is taken up by the spring 142 upon which bears the plunger 140 connected with said toggle. This completes the heel forming operation, but the heel forming means remains in its just-described relation to the heelend of the upper during the toe forming operation.

The toe forming means which was located at some distance from the heel forming means during the operation of inserting the heel end of the upper in the latter means has been moved down into proper position to receive the toe end of the upper during the flange turning movement of the slide 70 and the edge of the toe end of the upper is therefore now inserted in said toe forming means, the front edge being moved into engagement with the gage 262 whereby the width of the flange to be formed is gaged. At the end of the heel forming operation of the heel forming mechanism the catch 36 upon the three-armed lever 16 is dropped into a second notch 34 in the disk 32, thus permitting the tripping pawl 10 to come beneath the teeth of the ratchet wheel 8 and unclutch the pulley 6 from the shaft 4, thereby stopping the rotation of the cam shafts.

After the margin of the toe end of the upper has been placed in proper position between the clamp members 156 and 158 to be clamped thereby, the operator again depresses the treadle 26 and starts the cam shafts 33 and 50 to rotating again. The yoke 160, to which the upper clamp member 158 is attached, having been moved by the downward movement of the slide 132 beneath the lever 168, now operated upon by said lever to bring the said clamp member into clamping relation to the clamp member 156, said lever being drawn downwardly by its connections with the cam disk 178.

After the marginal portion of the toe part of the upper which is to form the outturned flange has been clamped between the clamp members 156 and 158, the toe former 184 is moved upward to form the body part of the toe, this movement being effected through its connections with the slide 192 which is raised by the ram 198. After the toe former 184 has been raised into the position in which its forward under edge lies in a plane above the marginal edge of the clamp member 158, said member being cut back from said edge, the former is then moved forward to form a bulge of the toe over its flange and simultaneously a crease between the flange and the toe. This forward movement of the toe former is effected by its connections with the toggle 224, 226, which is straightened by the hereinabove described connections With the cam 246. The forward movement of the toe former is accompanied by a gathering-in movement of the clamped margin of the toepart of the upper which is effected, as above described, by engage ment of the pushers 278 with the plates 264:, and the movement of the plates 266 through their connections with the plates 264:. The forward movement of the toe former serves not only to form a bulge upon the toe over its flange but also to eflect a longitudinal stretching of the upper, the heel end of the upper being, as above stated still held in the heel forming mechanism. The shaping of the upper being now completed the upper is permitted to set to shape while the upper of the other shoe of a pair is being operated upon in the other part of the machine.

At the end of the toe forming operation the catch 36 drops into a third notch 34 upon the disk 32 and thus permits the pulley 6 to be unclutched from the shaft 4 by the engagement of the tripping pawl 10 with a tooth of the ratchet wheel A fter the upper has been allowed to set to shape the de sired length of time. the treadle is again depressed by the ope "ator and the cam shafts are again started in rotation to restore the various parts to their initial positions. At the end of this operation. the catch 36 drops into the first of the three notches hereinabove referred to.

In the foregoing description and also in the following claims the term heel has been used to define that portion of the upper at its back end within which the counter is located, it the shoe is provided with a counter, or the corresponding part of a shoe upper in which there no counter, and it is to be understood as including both the heel end of the upper and the counter it it is desired to mold these together. Thus by the expression heel forming mechanism, used in several of the claims, is intended to be defined mechanism for shaping the heel end of a shoe upper or for shaping both the heel end of the shoe upper and its contained counter. and, it lined. for shaping both the upper and lining of the upper, counter and lining.

No attempt will be made to claim in this application the novel method of forming toes hercin illustrated which constitutes the s1il ject-mattcr ot' ll. ti. Letters Patent to Karl l lngel. 947.895. granted Feb. 1. 15110, and no attempt will be made to claim in this application the novel method of forming heels herein illustrated which constitutes the subject-matter of l nited States Letters Patent 1.001.745. to Karl l lngcl. granted August 29, 1911.

The novel process of making shoes. which involves molding and stretching the shoe upper before. the insertion of a las is not herein claimed but is made the subject matter of our co-pending application. Serial No. 859,422, filed August 31. 1914. for Letters Patent for improvements in processes of making shoes.

Having described our invention, What we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism arranged said mechanisms, and means for governing l the order of operation of said mechanisms constructed to stop the operating means after the operation of one of said mechanisms to permit the work to be adjusted to the other mechanism.

1. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism arranged to operate in succession, a single driving shaft, a clutch for effecting connection between said shaft and a source of power, operative connections between said shaft and said forming mechanisms, and means for automatically controlling the amount of operative movement imparted to said mechanisms constructed to efl'cct a disconnection of said shaft from the source of power at the end of the operation of one of said mechanisms to permit the work to be adjusted to the other.

A machine of the class described. hav ing, in combination, mechanism for shaping an upper and forming thereon an ontturned flange, operating means "for said mechanism, moans under control of the operator for of- 1eoting a connection between said operating mcans and a source of power, and automatic means for maintaining said connection until the cmnpletion of the shaping and flange forming operations constructed to cause a. disconnection from the source of power while the upper still confined in the said upper shaping mechanism.

(3. A machine 01 the class described. having. in combination. heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism. said mechanisms being constructra'l and arrangml to shape an upper oil the last, and operating means for said mechanisms comprising yielding operative connections whereby said mechanisms may adapt themselves antomatical y to upper materials (it varving thickness.

7. machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism arranged to operate in succession upon the same upper to shape said upper oil the last, and means for eliciting an adjustment of said mechanisms relative to each other whereby they may be adapted to operate upon uppers o1 tiiilcrcnt sizes.

t3. A. machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism, said mechanisms being constructed and arranged to shape an upper otl the last and one of said mcchanitans being arranged to operate upon said upper while it is held in the other nirrhanism,

5). .1 n :chine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe l'orming mechanism arranged to operate upon an upper While it is held in said heel tormii'ig mechanism, said mechanisms being constructed and arranged to shape an upper all the last.

it). in a "um tine ot the class described, the combination with means for confining the heel end o?" a shoe upper in such manner that the shape oi said heel is maintained, of means operating: in the toe end of said upper to torn; the too and to impart a longitudinal stretch to said upper.

it. In a mach ne oi" the class described, the combination with means adapted to enter the heel cud of a shoe upper and to furnish suppi along a substantial part of the vertical n alian line at said heel end against longitudinal movement of the upper in the direction of the toe, of means operating in the toe end of said upper to shape said toe and to impart a longitudinal stretch to said app during the toe shaping operation.

12. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, mechanism for shaping an upper and forming thereon an outturned flange, said mechanism being adapted to opcrate upon an upper off the last, and means for operating said mechanism in such man ncr that during the forming operation a longitudinal stretch is given to the upper.

i3. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism arranged to operate in succession upon the same upper and so constructed that during the operation of the second mechanism to operate a lengthwise stretch is given to the upper.

i i. A machine of the class described having. in combination, mechanism for giving to the heel end of a shoe upper the shape of the heel end of a last, mechanism for giving to the toe end oi the upper the shape of the toe end of the last, said mechanisms being normally separated a distance greater than the length of the upper to be operated upon, and means for auton'iatically moving one of said mechanisms into operative relation to an upper While it is confined in the other mechanism.

15. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism normally separated a distance greater than the length of the upper to be operated upon, and means for automatically moving one of said mechanisms into ope 'ative relation to an upper confined in the other at the end of the forming operation of said latter mechanism upon said upper.

16. A machine of the class described having, in combination, mechanism for imparting to the heel end of a shoe upper the shape of the heel end of a last, mechanism for imparting to the toe end of said upper the shape of the toe end of the last, said mechanisms being normally separated a dis tance greater than the length of the upper to be operated upon, and means operating automatically as the operation upon one end of the upper is completing to move the other mechanism into operative relation to said upper.

17. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism normally separated a distance greater than the length of the upper to be operated upon, one of said mechanisms being connected to a mov able part of the other mechanism in such manner that, during the operative movement of said part, said first mechanism is liu'ought into operative relationship to the upper held in the other mechanism.

18. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism normally separated a distance greater than the length of the upper to be operated upon, and means for forming an outturned flange upon the heel end of the upper constructed to bring said toe forming mechanism into operative relation to an upper confined in said heel forming mechanism.

19. A machine of the class described, hav ing, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism, a slide upon which said toe forming mechanism is carried, means for moving said slide to bring said too forming mechanism into and out of operative relationship to an upper confined in said heel forming mechanism, and a flange turner connected to said slide to move therewith to etl'ect a flange turning operation during the movement of said toe forming mechanism into operative position, said flange turner being connected to said slide for transverse, flange pressing movement relative thereto.

20. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism, a flange turner arranged to cooperate with said heel forming mechanism, a slide carrying said toe forming mechanism and with which said flange turner is connected, means for moving said flange turner to form a. flange upon an upper held in said heel forming mechanism and to bring said toe forming mechanism into operative relation to said upper, and means for adjusting said toe forming mechanism upon its slide.

21. A machine of the class described having, in combination, mechanism for con forming the heel end of a shoe upper to the shape of the heel end of a last, mechanism for conforming the toe end of said upper to the shape of the toe end of the last, said mechanisms being constructed and arranged to operate upon a single shoe upper when the latter is right side up and to hold said upper with its two ends in conformed condition after both conforming operations have been completed in order that the upper may set to its conformed shape, and means for operating said mechanisms.

22. A machine of the class described having, in combination, mechanism for conforming the heel end of a shoe upper to the shape of the heel end of a last, mechanism for conforming the toe end of said upper to the shape of the toe end of the last, said two mechanisms being so constructed and arranged in said machine that they may both operate upon. said upper when the said upper is right side up and without the necessity for removing the upper from one of said mechanisms to permit the operation of the other mechanism thereon, and means for operating said mechanisms.

23. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism and toe forming mechanism constructed and arranged to operate upon a single shoe upper when the latter is right side up and with its toe pointing away from the operator, and means for operating said mechanisms.

24:. In a machine of the class described, means for shaping a portion of a shoe upper into its desired shape in the finished shoe constructed to leave a marginal portion of the upper projecting outside said shaping means, and means for turning said projecting margin into a plane substantially parallel to the bottom of the shoe having movement in two directions substantially normal to each other, the first movement being a wiping movement in a plane parallel to the bottom of the shoe and the second movement being a pressing movement normal to the shoe bottom after said Wiping movement.

25. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping a portion of a shoe upper into its desired shape in the finished shoe constructed to leave a marginal portion of the upper projecting outside said shaping means, of means for wiping said margin into a plane substantially parallel to the shoe bottom. and means for causing said wiping means to press said margin out of said plane after said wiping operation.

26. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping a portion of a shoe upper to its desired shape in the finished shoe, arranged to leave a marginal portion of said upper projecting outside said shaping means, of means for wiping said margin into a plane closely adjacent to and substantially parallel to the shoe bottom, and means operating after said wiping movement to cause said wiping means to press upon said margin in a direction substantially normal to said plane to insure the permanent set of the margin in the desired relation to the other parts of the upper.

27. In a machine of the class described, the combination with heel forming mechanism, of a flange turner arranged to turn out a flange upon an upper held in said heel forming mechanism, and a slide upon which said flange turner is carried arranged to constitute a gage to determine the width of said flange.

28. A machine of the class described, having, in combination. heel forming mechanism, means for turning out upon a heel confined in said forming mechanism an outturned flange, and means for pressing out said outturned flange constructed to engage said flange throughout its extent.

29. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism, means for turning out upon a heel confined in said forming mechanism an outturned flange, and means for pressing out the outturned flange adjustable to vary the pressure at different points upon said flange.

30. In apparatus of the class described, a flange turner having a face for engaging and turning out a flange and having another face for engaging and pressing out an outturned flange.

31. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, means for shaping an upper to fit the heel, and means for forming upon said upper an outturned sole attaching flange, said means being constructed and arranged to maintain said flange in outturned condition throughout its extent and to exert pressure transversely thereto.

A machine of the class described, having, in combination, means for shaping the heel end of a shoe upper to fit the heel, and means for forming upon said upper while it is held by the shaping means an outturned sole attaching flange, said means being arranged to move first in a direction substantially parallel to the plane of the flange to be formed and then in a direction substantially transverse to the plane of said flange.

$3 1. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism comprising a male mold and a cooperating female mold, means for effecting yieldingly a relative movement of said molds into clamping relation to an upper located between them, means for turning out upon said clamped upper an outturned flange, and means for effecting yieldingly a relative flange pressing movement between said turning means and said molds.

3 1-. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism comprising a male mold and a 00- operating female mold, means for moving one of said molds yieldingly into clamping relation to an upper placed in or upon the other mold, means for turning out upon said clamped upper an outturned flange, and means for yieldingly pressing out said outturned flange.

35. In a machine of the class described, means for forming an out-turned flange upon the heel end of a shoe upper, and means for pressing out the out-turned flange constructed to press said flange up out of the plane in which it lies in the finished shoe.

36. In a machine of the class described, means for engaging and supporting the heel end of an out-turned upper, and means for overturning the lieel flange of said upper, whe eby its outer edge will be above the pl ane in which it will lie in the finished shoe.

237. In a machine of the class described, means for engaging the heel end of a shoe upper along a flange turning line, and means for turning out a flange about said line constructed to overturn said flange so that its outer edge will lie above the plane in which it will lie in the finished shoe.

3.7. A machine of the class described, having. in combination, heel forming mechanism, means for turning out on a heel confined in said forming mechanism an outturned flange and means for pressing out the outturncd flange constructed to press said flange up out of the plane in which it is to lie in the finished shoe.

39. In apparatus of the class described, a flange turner having a face for engaging and turning out a flange and having another face for engaging and pressing out an outturned flange, said latter face being provided with convex portions constructed and arranged to press said flange up out of the plane in which it is to lie in the finished shoe.

it). A machine of the class described, having. in combination, heel forming mechanism comprising a male mold and a female mold, means for turning out upon the face of said female mold a flange upon a heel confined between said molds and means for pressing out the outturned flange, said female mold being provided adjacent to the edge over which the flange is turned with a recess into which the flange may be pressed out of the plane in which it is to lie in the finished shoe.

41. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism, means for turning out upon a heel confined in said forming mechanism an outturned flange, and means for pressing out the outturned flange, said forming mechanism being provided with a concavity into which the flange may be pressed, and said pressing means being provided with a corresponding convexity.

42. A. machine of the class described, having, in combination, heel forming mechanism comprising a male mold and a female mold, a flange turner arranged to operate beneath said molds, a post upon which said male mold is supported, said flange turner being provided with a slot to receive said post, means for moving said flange turner in a direction transverse to its flange turning movement to cause it to press out said flange, and means for automatically filling up the portion of the slot in said flange turner beneath said flange in advance of its pressing movement.

43. In a machine of the class described, cooperating clamp members arranged to engage the marginal portion of the toe part of a shoe upper, one of said members comprising plates movable in the plane of the clamping surface of said member along the respective sides of the toe and other plates movable relatively to each other to effect a gathering of the margin about the front end of the toe.

44. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a smooth clamp member, of a roughened clamp member, the roughened portions of said latter member being carried by a plurality of plates movable in the plane of the clamping surface of said member, two of said plates being arranged to engage marginal portions of the toe part of a shoe upper along its respective sides, and others of said plates being arranged to engage the marginal portion of the toe part of said upper at its front end and to have relative movement toward each other across said end.

45. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, means for clamping the marginal portion of the toe part of an upper of the desired width of a flange to be formed thereon, a toe former arranged to move first in a direction substantially transverse to the plane of the clamped margin and then in a direction substantially 

